Upstart Sushi Joints Are the New “It” Thing
Sure, Mijiuri is a hip new Japanese restaurant. But what about the food?
Photo Edward Biamonte
Fresh fish and generous servings are the stars at Mijuri
First the spectacular: Mijuri’s service is second to none. I’ve never been greeted as enthusiastically or served as many complimentary appetizers. (It’s not a magazine thing; it has happened each of three times I’ve been there.) More good can be found in Mijuri’s pricing; the weekday early bird special, with a 10-percent discount for diners between 11 a.m. and noon, is a fantastic deal. The lunch specials are almost discount-store cheap, especially if you go with a bento, which is a compartmentalized lunch with different Japanese staples. One fellow diner—who eats her share of sushi—said Mijuri’s bento box was one of the biggest she’d ever seen, and it was only about $10. (I had one lunch special that included a 10-piece spicy tuna roll, a 10-piece California roll and miso soup for a mere $8.50.) For the aesthetically minded, Mijuri has a tasteful Japanese décor that bears no resemblance to the semi-tacky Barone’s Italian joint (not to mention the Dunkin’ Donuts) that preceded it.
With many a droll Springfieldian name, such as the “Cox Roll” and the “James River Roll,” the specialty sushi we tried was good-to-very good. The Tyson Roll (chicken tempura, crab, cream cheese and avocado, $10.95) was the consensus favorite. The Ping Ping Girl Roll (tuna, salmon, yellowtail and masago, wrapped in pink seaweed, $9.95) was just a notch below that on the taste level, but the pink seaweed made it look like something from a Jacques Cousteau documentary. Of the six to eight rolls I’ve tried at Mijuri, only the very basics—a spicy tuna roll and a California Roll—left me underwhelmed. This is what a baseball coach would call “the fundamentals.”
I like Mijuri. Its prices, selection and atmosphere are better than many of its mid-range Japanese-restaurant competitors. If the staff can maintain the quality if its food and service, Mijuri should be able to make it in a suddenly sushi-rich market.
Matt Lemmon is editor of GO Magazine.
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